Deenie Hartzog writes:
Backstage at Zac Posen during New York Fashion Week brings the usual bustle. Pencil-thin models slouch sulkily on stools while a make-up artist brushes their faces and a fabulous hairdresser coifs their long strands. A boom operator stands behind a gaggle of editors while the hairdresser and makeup artist patiently explain the model’s look.
It is, in short, chaos.
The leading makeup man at Zac Posen was MAC’s Kabuki and the stylist was John Frieda’s Luigi Murenu—both working to achieve a look heavily set in Japanese fantasy. “Creating a make-up look for Zac Posen’s Japanese-inspired collection was a great opportunity to do a transformative editorial look,” says Kabuki. Shades were inspired by glamour icons Lana Turner and Marlene Dietrich, and “mixed with an edgy New Wave angularity.”
How did this sync up with the collection? Zac Posen is all about glamour, but Kabuki wanted to focus on the middle stages of that transformation—what we might see if we were to discover a geisha in the middle of her beauty routine.
The eyes were extreme and the lips were heavily lacquered with a pearl texture at the center. “The rich brocades in his collection tied in perfectly with an on-trend red glossy lip. I wanted to re-shape the eyes to complement Zac’s architectural structuring and his bold take on volume,” explained Kabuki.
As for the hair, it was considered “punk geisha.” Constructed with a skillful hand and exceptional product, this up do’ was anything but effortless. One wrong move and someone is losing an eye!
Overall, the beauty brought forward the drama fashion-mavens expect from Zac Posen: svelte silhouettes, a bold lip, and intense everything.